Rick: You've introduced me to something new. We don't work. The Seine River splits the city into the Right Bank and the Left Bank. Rick: What is the history of the onion soup? Two ancient theaters spread out on the side of Fourvière Hill, adjacent to the Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum. The only new footage is of Paris and Steves has effectively recycled his previous script right down to the jokes. Rick: Do you like it? Chamonix was one of the original alpine resorts. Chamonix is in the valley floor, the great city of Lyon's about an hour that way, and we're gonna see 'em all. The Aiguille du Midi station is a maze of tunnels and stairs leading to various thin-air amusements and stunning viewpoints. Since each day you try to cover about 10 miles, it's important to eat and stay hydrated as you go. …And Tiepolo, whose fresco graces the mansion's lobby. So, 500 years ago, the noble families of Lyon used to live here. The people you meet on the trails come from many lands, and your days are filled with cheery greetings. The Musée d'Orsay houses French art of the 1800s and early 1900s (specifically, 1848–1914), picking up where the Louvre's art collection leaves off. Inline skaters take to the streets most Sunday afternoons and Friday evenings. Getting around Paris is easy on the Métro. This new one celebrates the system's 100th birthday. France, the biggest country in western Europe, has glorious Alps in the east. Consider starting or ending your Eiffel Tower visit by having a drink or snack outside at Café Carlu (within the Architecture and Monuments Museum but open to the public). In the special, Rick visits friends and families in England, France, Norway, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy to reveal their customs and practices of the holiday season. It's not about exercise, this kind of thing is best when you slow down. Parisians own their city. We're here on a sunny Sunday in August, and it's packed. Its impressive ancient Roman theaters make the importance of Lyon as a Gallo-Roman capital clear. We're surrounded by a majestic world of jagged rock needles — called aiguilles in French. To enhance your art experience, be sure to check out Rick Steves Classroom Europe, my free collection of 400+ teachable video clips — including a visit to Monet’s garden at Giverny. Mountain huts — called refuges — are placed, conveniently, a day's hike apart. Virginie: Et voila, l'escargot! All of Rick's TV shows and specials in one DVD box set And basically, you know, you order cheese to finish the wine and then you order more wine to finish the cheese! Dangling silently for 30 minutes, we glide over the glacier. Oh look at that! To beat the hordes and clouds, ride the cable car (20 minutes each way) as early as you can and have breakfast above 12,000 feet. Thu, 12/10 at 10:00 am on Austin PBS Create. Arnaud: Bye-bye Rick! It's all about Notre Dame — "Our Lady." This ornate, gleaming church fills your view as you arrive at the top of Lyon's Fourvière Hill. Each day you see a different valley, a different glacier, a different view of the great mountain. From the top of the lift, a tunnel leads into the rock, where we make our final ascent — by elevator — to a commanding perch. When you find a stream, soak your feet. You know it's layered of cheese on top; it's wonderful. If you don't have time for the whole route, a good option is to hike the section from Chamonix to Courmayeur, Italy — roughly half the loop — and return to Chamonix by bus via the Helbronner and Aiguille du Midi lifts (or, far less scenically, by bus through the Mont Blanc Tunnel). Episode 105C: Copenhagen and Ærø*. A glimpse of the decadence of Paris' "beautiful age" (or belle époque) is enjoyed along the Champs-Elysées. Arnaud: They'd say "Yes, sure,"…but it would come after the meal. Today, it stands tall, an exclamation point, symbolizing the proud, independent spirit of the French. This time we're enjoying the edible, drinkable, scenic, and floatable delights of one of my favorite corners of France: Burgundy. Today, any remnant of that Latin is buried by a touristy tabouli of ethnic restaurants. Neighborhoods enjoy first class public transit…and, if a train line's decommissioned, it's put to good use with its arches housing colorful shops and the elevated track made into a long, skinny park. Rick: Oui. Arnaud: Ah, the onion soup is something you eat more in the wintertime. Rick: So, "old books" in old French? While the stunning George Pompidou Center holds one of the world's top modern art collections, most Parisians are happy just to hang out in front. Rick: Plat principal… Rick: This is the Italian room. Ciara: Yes, but this was the room of madame, chambre of madame. But by the time the church was completed the secular-minded Revolution was in full swing, and the church was converted into a nonreligious mausoleum honoring the "Champions of French liberty": Voltaire, Rousseau, Descartes, and others. No one would show Courbet's work, so he put on his own art show. Eventually engineers constructed a state-of-the-art array of trains and lifts to get the influx of nature-hungry city folk high into the mountains with ease. And Lyon's grand churches attest to the city's importance as a leading Christian center. Episode 106C: Stockholm and Helsinki*. Virginie: Which…Beaujolais comes together as the third river of Lyon. Back in the old town, Lyon's characteristic bouchons are small restaurants that evolved from the days when mothers would feed the silk workers after a long day. This church, the Basilica of Notre-Dame, was ready for worship just in time for the outbreak of the next war, World War I. And it also has a modern cultural center. Until the 1800s, from Sicily to Sweden, Latin was the language of Europe's educated elite. Her hand is a clamp. Rick: Santé! In 1744, an ailing King Louis XV was miraculously healed by St. Geneviève, the city's patron saint, and he thanked her by replacing her ruined church with a more fitting tribute. The king and queen were beheaded by a stark and egalitarian government. Arnaud: Dancing all around the place. The Latin Quarter is the core of the Left Bank — as the south side of the Seine River is known. Hikers from both countries enjoy the sun and the views. A touristy tunnel is carved deep into the ice. Shuffle through passageways of skull-studded tibiae, admire 300-year-old sculptures cut into the walls of the catacombs, then climb 86 steps to emerge far from where you entered, with white-limestone-covered toes, telling everyone you've been underground gawking at bones. And it was here that Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, and over 2,000 others were made "a foot shorter at the top.". Rick: Oh come on, tell me the honest truth. Arnaud: Raw beef, but very fresh. Arnaud: Ah, this is dessert time, Rick. Back then the vernacular languages, like French and German, were crude…good enough to handle your basic needs. You can stand in midair with no risk…but plenty of fear. When we travel, we see and experience vivid examples of climate change. In this painting you can almost feel the sun's warmth and smell the powder on the women's faces. Then we'll see stark realism and dreamy Impressionism in the Orsay Gallery. The farmer's focused on his work and proud of his product. And the latest generation shows Europe's commitment to ever more efficient public transit. From here, tourists get to see why Chamonix attracts climbers from all over the world. And it hides a lifetime of cultural delights. Arnaud: It is good, eh? Virginie: We were the first Roman ancient city of Gaul. Until about the year 1800, people didn't climb, or hike, or even paint mountains much. So far, so good with the first three episodes. Rick: Uh huh. From Avenue de l'Opéra, once lined with Paris' most fashionable haunts, its facade suggests "all power to the wealthy." Rick: Dancing! See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Come for a look at Monsieur Eiffel's festive creation day or night (when the tower is lit up). Arnaud: It comes out eventually. To reach the receding glacier from the Montenvers station you can either walk down 500+ steps (it's more every year; on the way down signs show the former extent of the glacier over the years) or ride a free gondola and walk just the last stairs. While the church is dedicated to Mary, the rest of Paris seems dedicated to regular Parisians. On the loose in France's countryside, we drive up Alsace's Route du Vin for miles of vineyards, half-timbered villages, and feudal fortresses. For more tips, check out Cassandra Overby's Explore Europe on Foot. A park showcases the city's archeological treasures. Episode 108C: Northwest England*. Be the first one to add a plot. The church is dedicated to "our lady" (or notre dame). You can get an individual consultation to tailor your hike to your time frame and ability. And small shops are ideal for assembling a rustic picnic. I find it a more enjoyable and rewarding place than the Louvre. Our first night is at Nant Borrant, a mountain lodge dating back to the 1800s. Rick Steves' Europe is public television's most-watched, longest-running travel series. Terms of Service | Privacy, Paris, France: Carnavalet Museum and Remnants of Royalty, Paris, France: Latin Quarter Café Culture, Paris, France: The Panthéon and the Paris Catacombs, Highlights of Paris: Eiffel and Monet to Crème Brûlée. Think of the grand marble stairway as a theater itself, filled with Paris' beautiful people. This is the empire of death." Ciara: And this is the bedroom. Don't leave Paris without a stroll along Avenue des Champs-Elysées. Arnaud: This was so good. To me, Paris is the capital of Europe. Join Rick as he experiences the local culture, cuisine, and fun along with some powerful lessons that only travel can teach. Rick: So, what is the French word for these little stalls? France is a country with lots of variety, from grand cities to awe-inspiring mountains. Before us spread the Alps. Virginie: The capital of Gaul. In the 18th century, ground-breaking political and social thinking by French philosophers like Voltaire and Rousseau ushered in the "Age of Enlightenment." Rick: Cass, what are the most important things people should know when they're hiking like this? Arnaud: Yes, this is the entrée, and actually you guys call the "entrée" the main course, when the entrée is the starter in France. Rick: So, Lyon is honeycombed with these? Even the shadows are caught up in the mood — everything's dancing. But my luggage is back in Chamonix — and I will be too, in time for dinner. From the Aiguille du Midi, you can ride all the way back to Chamonix; or — way, way better — get off halfway down at Plan de l'Aiguille, where you'll find a scenic café, paragliders jumping off cliffs (except in July–Aug), and plenty of spots to just hang out in the sun. The Place de la Révolution (or "Revolution Square"): It was here that the new-fangled guillotine, considered a humane form of execution in its day, was set up. Arnaud: Yes, I love it. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. Written and hosted by best-selling guidebook author Rick Steves, each half-hour show takes viewers to Europe's most interesting places, from great cities to off-the-beaten-path discoveries. Just started watching this series on Netflix. Ciara: Exactly. Chamonix hosted the first winter Olympics in 1924 — and it still feels like an international festival. In The Painter's Studio, Gustave Courbet takes us behind the scene at the painting of a goddess. So the city was a critical hub for transportation, and it became the economic, religious, and administrative capital of Roman Gaul. The characteristic tall windows ensured that weavers working the looms had enough light for the longest workdays possible. Virginie: Exactly. Faster than a taxi can take us, we hurtle beneath the city to our next stop. Arnaud: This is the main course: plat principal in French. At its peak, in the mid-1800s, it was churning with 30,000 looms. Though only 130 years old, it's impressive and iconic, with a mosaic-filled interior and a climbable dome. Rick: I think escargot deserves a little red wine. Train tracks used to go right down the middle. The real show was before and after, when the elite of Paris — out to see and be seen — strutted their elegant stuff in the extravagant lobbies. The saved stand happily at Christ's right hand. Today it seats 3,000 for concerts. The very notion of royalty was challenged, and churches were turned into temples of Reason. Cross the tracks and you find the Realists. Garlic, parsley… And, in the spirit of France's revolution, the government truly seems to work for the people. Inspired by this miracle, Christianity flourished and the temple was replaced by a church. France / Emily in Paris TV; Please sign in to post. Rick: OK. These men were the first to climb it, back in 1786. It was a muscular symbol of the Industrial Age. With the shuttle loaded with colorful silk thread, the loom worker patiently wove the prized fabric. Rather than mixing colors together on a palate, they applied the colors in dabs, side-by-side on the canvas, and let these mix as they traveled to your eye. Everything's breathtaking. …And this was Edouard's bedroom, complete with a deluxe bathroom. At the time, sex was considered dirty, and could be exalted only in a more pure and divine form. A cable car [gondola] descends, taking visitors closer to the glacier. These scenes, like about everything else in the church, lead to the high altar, where Mary reigns as Queen of Heaven. Arnaud: I love it! Statues celebrate famous mountaineers with their sights set on Mont Blanc. The guillotine is long gone, and its centerpiece is an Egyptian obelisk. This loom — amazing technology for the time — automated much of the process, allowing one person, rather than an entire family, to weave the precious cloth. One reason it takes so darn long is Rick’s screw-ups. I'm meeting up with Cassandra Overby, author of Explore Europe on Foot and an expert on Europe's long-distance hikes. Rick: That's beautiful! Enjoy some of these embarassing moments. This is one of the highest lifts in Europe. And then you enjoy! Before the Impressionists, 19th-century artists painted idealized beauty. Tonight we're sleeping in a bigger refuge. Then climb the 284 steps to the observation deck up top, with sweeping skyline panoramas and a mesmerizing view down onto the traffic that swirls around the arch. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Hang your head out the window, enjoy the silence, and explore every corner of your view. Rick: And today it's just so relaxed. The Gauls were the original French tribe. Rick: Food! These images reinforced the stories people learned in church. TVGuide has every full episode so you can stay-up-to-date and watch your favorite show Rick Steves' Europe anytime, anywhere. The shorter Rick Steves Best of France guidebook focuses on France's top destinations and sights, is in full color, and is updated every other year. Hi, I'm Rick Steves — back with more of the Best of Europe. Thanks for joining us. Virginie is taking us to a favorite of hers [Café Restaurant du Soleil]. Rick: Really? It was, and construction commenced. That's the summit of Mont Blanc. With its tiny kitchen and hard-working waitstaff, it entertains an appreciative crowd of diners. see our FAQ. I wish I could have an apartment here if I could afford it. Actually, today's Paris thrives with ordinary people. If the weather's clear, the price doesn't matter. Arnaud: Yeah, you know, people strolling… Clearly, cheese is the energy bar of the Tour de Mont Blanc. Hikers here have plenty of options. Today, Paris' vast Revolution Square is called Place de la Concorde — "place of harmony." Then we hike the Tour du Mont Blanc — a trail that circles that iconic mountain. We have the Rhône, the Saône — but the Beaujolais flows even more into the city. While private rooms are available, most hikers share a co-ed dorm with facilities down the hall. Rick Steves' European Travel Tips & Tricks 1 Episode (2018) Rick Steves Special: The Story of Fascism in Europe 1 Episode (2018) Rick Steves Special 5 Episodes (2012-2017) Hiking into it, you find yourself in a cool, dripping world of translucent blue. From here, it's clear why the glacier is called the Mer de Glace — "sea of ice." Arnaud: Old books, yes, and they sell prints, you know…magazines… This is a once-in-a-lifetime, I've-been-there experience. Rick: OK. Arnaud: I just don't like it! Arnaud: This is a kir, you know? Episode 102C: Alps of Austria and Italy. It comes from the name "bouquin," which means it's old French. On the Bastille Day we have a big party here. According to this painting, it took three to run the guillotine: one to manage the blade, one to catch the blood, and one to hold the head — in this case, of Marie Antoinette — up to the crowd. During the Enlightenment, and the Age of Revolution which followed, everything was subjected to what was called the "test of reason": if it wasn't logical, it was tossed out. Near the station the Refuge du Montenvers, a former hotel built in 1800 for tourists who'd arrived here on foot or by mule, still has a full-service restaurant and basic accommodation. Chamonix is in the valley floor, the great city of Lyon's about an hour that way, and we're gonna see 'em all. Episode 104C: Spain's Costa del Sol*. Arnaud: Ça va bien, oui. After Paris, it's arguably the most historic and culturally important city in the country. Botanists appreciate the well-maintained and varying vegetation. It's like a huge park — part in France, part in Italy, part in Switzerland — and it's busy June through September. Camping is forbidden on this circuit, and you'll need to reserve well in advance for a spot in one of the route's refuges, which range from simple huts without electricity to venerable old hotels. In the 1600s, the glacier extended much farther downhill — actually threatening to block off the valley. After that triumphant summit, mountain climbing became fashionable. Arnaud: Yeah, this is Ile St. Louis, Rick. Auguste Renoir caught Parisians living and loving in the afternoon sun. It's conservative and revolutionary, side by side. And below us, safely navigating deadly crevasses, small groups with mountain guides enjoy the challenge of their choice. Louis XIV, who enjoyed the luxury but anticipated trouble, said, "Après moi, le deluge" (after me, the flood). American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. Rick: OK…. This bridge actually dates back to Roman times, and for much longer than that, its river has been carving this gorge. A vast collection of hundred-year-old print blocks still provides the patterns to decorate the cloth. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Okay, I have my escargot, and I just use this. Current Episode (aired 14 Nov. 2020) Egypt's Cairo. Add Rick Steves' Europe to your Watchlist to find out when it's coming back. The Giant's Tooth, not climbed until 1882, was one of the last to be conquered. The heart of the museum features that deluge, which hit when this man, Louis XVI, was king. Then, in the 19th century, the Romantic movement had people all across Europe communing with nature. If you like Impressionism, visit this museum. But while mainstream artists cranked out these ideal beauties, a revolutionary new breed of artists was painting a harsher reality. In fact, twice a week streets are closed and thousands turn out to roll through their city in an exuberant celebration of life. Rick: No. To get away from all the tourists, simply walk the back streets, where a bit of Montmartre's village charm survives. Back then, life here on Montmartre was a working-class commotion of cafés, bistros, and dance halls. Arnaud: After the dessert…always. [snort], ©2020 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | The spice comes from the Worcestershire sauce, the ketchup, the mustard, the Tabasco, salt and pepper, and the yolk of an egg, and then you just mix that all together with the beef. Virginie: In the first century, the Roman city of Lyon had a population of 50,000 people — which is four times as big as Roman Paris. So, you go around it in about 10 days, each day about 10 miles for a total of about 100. We're heading for a station 12,600 feet high, just across from the summit of Mont Blanc. Arnaud: Oh, it's vicious circle. see our FAQ. Virginie: River number three! It's the city I can return to more than any other, with grand monuments that need no introduction. But the French love of fine living couldn't be kept down. Virginie: So, I have a salad du soleil; it has the foie gras — which — the French love their foie gras. We visit teeming Cairo, straddling the Nile, exploring the back streets on a tuk-tuk. Ciara: Exactly. Posted by cj-traveler (NM, USA) on 10/08/20 12:19 AM. Rick: Festivals here? Soup with mountain cheese, tasty sausage with potato au gratin, and, to compliment it all, a hearty red wine from Savoy — that's the region we're in. Arnaud: Steak tartare, yes. This one's a bit more remote, high above the tree line, but with the same hearty food, simple dormitories, and great company. Virginie: You're being very brave, but it is a local dish. FULL EPISODES … Arnaud: Bouquinistes, we call them. But today, we're heading back to Chamonix. Tell me about the aperitif. The Virgin Mary was highly revered throughout the Middle Ages. Jump to bottom. The damned — a sorry chain gang — are on his left. Manet's nude doesn't gloss over anything. While the Mont Blanc massif offers some of Europe's most demanding mountaineering, this accommodating trail is flexible — enjoyed by hikers with a wide range of abilities. Rick: Steak tartare — very famous. Then we were the city from where Christianity spread all over France. Ah, the steps of Sacré-Cœur. I'm rendezvousing with my Parisian friend and fellow tour guide, Arnaud Servignat. Louis XIV — a.k.a. Fortunately, the Tour de Mont Blanc's enjoyable combination of wilderness and commerce means the trail is well-developed for the needs of hikers along the way. Use one of the services below to sign in to PBS: ... Rick Steves' Europe Egypt’s Cairo. To sort it out, it's always nice to have a local connection, and I'm joined by my friend and fellow tour guide Virginie Moré. That frees me to hike with just the essentials in a small day bag. They featured easygoing open-air scenes, candid spontaneity, and always…the play of light. It looks fabulous. Trekkers are rewarded with top-notch mountain vistas, of course, as well as medieval bridges, deep gorges, ancient trade routes with a thousand years of ruts worn into the stone, farmers making cheese the old-fashioned way, tiny alpine chapels, and inviting huts offering a break and a drink. The Aiguille du Midi is the most spectacular mountain lift in Europe — and the most popular ride in the valley. In fact, the University of Paris, a leading university in medieval Europe, was founded here in the 13th century. But move back…and voilà! Rick: A vicious cycle! I hope you've enjoyed our look at this corner of France — the great city of Lyon, the mountain resort of Chamonix, and something new for me: a sample of a classic European long-distance hike. Rick: Just look at my gear and look at what shape I'm in — and I'm having a blast. As worshippers headed for Mass they'd walk under a relief of Judgment Day. And Parisians called this university district "the Latin Quarter" because that's the language they heard on the streets. The ice cave, a hypnotizing shade of blue-green, is actually a long tunnel dug about 75 yards into the glacier. We'll ride the lift up to the Aiguille du Midi, and then cross over to the border of Italy. Carvings like that, and like this scene of Eve tempting Adam with an apple, remind us that this art was more than decoration. Time slots can fill up months in advance (especially for visits from April through September). Pay your respects at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. ... Emily in Paris TV: cj-traveler: 38: 10/20/20 11:17 AM: First timer in Paris: looking for a good hotel: Phil: 29: The actual theater is a palace of plush and ornate seating. It's Ritzy in the true sense, since they cluster around the original Ritz Hotel. Very good. Rick: So, these are souvenirs? The small theater, an "odeon," was acoustically designed for speeches and songs. France. This bouchon serves Lyon's tastiest quenelles, offering five types, including the traditional brochet (pike), scallops (my favorite), and original varieties made with wild garlic. At 12,000 feet, even the stairs are breathtaking. Within this silk workshop you'll see stretched silk canvases, buckets of dye, and artists in action, doing silk printing and screen painting by hand. Sure, ya gotta see the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, but after you get your gottas out of the way, enjoy the Orsay. See any my guidebooks that cover Paris for more tips on avoiding lines and crowds at the Eiffel Tower. Despite being one of France's largest cities, Lyon has an old center that feels peaceful and manageable. Renoir paints a waltzing blur to capture not the physical details, but the intangible charm of a restaurant on Paris' Montmartre. His hands ) episode List come back hiking into it, you know it 's coming back,... 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