Carlos is taking me to a place famous for a food Spaniards are crazy about. He was born in Versailles, and while he ruled Spain for 40 years, he stayed very French. But when Napoleon invaded, their hopes were dashed. On Sundays, cheer for the bull at a bullfight or bargain like mad at a mega-size flea market. Guernica caused an immediate sensation, and with each passing year…and war, it seems more prophetic. There are over 150 fancy clocks in the palace — all in working order. El Escorial was more than an impressive palace for a divine monarch. And some bars are more contemporary catering to young locals who come out for their favorite acts. In a matter of weeks he wove these bomb-shattered shards into a large mural called Guernica. But one brutal spectacle that survives today — anchored deep in the psyche of Spain — is the bullfight. Anyone have any experience with Rick Steves tour to Barcelona and Madrid?. In fact, they can be seen in the mirror at the back of the room. This time we're in Madrid — palaces, paseo…and perhaps Europe's finest ham: jamón. Carlos, a Spaniard who led tours for my groups for more than a decade, and his wife from Seattle, Jennifer, run Letango Tours, offering itineraries within Madrid and beyond, as well as customized tours (whether city, regional, or country-wide) and bookings anywhere in Spain. The eatery, called the Museum of Ham, is tastefully decorated…unless you're a vegetarian, or a pig. Ignoring the rebels' passionate pleas, a faceless firing squad mows them down — without mercy. A few blocks away stands one of Europe's most stunning palaces. Start traveling the world here! Madrid has a few easy and affordable options: Intimate Casa Patas ("House of Feet") attracts big-name flamenco artists, with contemporary flamenco that may be jazzier than your notion — it depends on who's performing (reservations smart). Rick: Can you taste the difference? Because of this bully in the national budget, Spain has almost nothing else to show from this most powerful period of her history. Series: Rick Steves' Europe The Majesty of Madrid. While Spaniards don't eat dinner until 9 or 10 o'clock, with a meal like this, I can eat early and still go local. But it continued to produce great artists. The world has definitely come to a fast pace in terms of daily living, but what is the fastest speed that everyone in the universe can go to? They're lured by the world's pleasures: eating…drinking…sex. With acres of lavish paintings and tapestries, a king's ransom of chandeliers, priceless treasures, and bronze decor covered in gold leaf. These party animals are heading straight to hell…a burning, post-apocalyptic, wasteland where sinners are led off to eternal torment. The Plaza Mayor and Puerto del Sol mark the center. Madrid — permeated with passion — from its grand history to its love of life today. It's as if shards from the bombing are pasted onto the canvas. The next day — this painting's called The Third of May — the French began reprisals. Its capital, Madrid, sits high in the center. And this plaza is another example of how throughout Europe, energetic governments are turning formerly car-congested wastelands into charming public spaces. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, The king's front yard? This cheap and cheery stand-up bar is an assembly line of meaty treats. ▲ Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida Church with Goya's tomb, plus frescoes by the artist. It's made to order for a green and breezy escape from the city. ▲▲▲ Centro de Arte Reina Sofía Modern-art museum featuring Picasso's epic masterpiece Guernica. Whether you're planning an upcoming trip, or simply enjoy reading about far away places, our collection of travel books at Hachette is a great place to start. Picasso put a human face on collateral damage. Once the private domain of royalty, this majestic park has been a favorite of Madrid's commoners since Charles III decided to share it with his subjects in the late 18th century. Madrid was once the capital of the mightiest Empire on earth. The palace was designed to be Phillip's Versailles — to help establish a new dynasty…the Bourbons. ... PBS Utah on YouTube. Explore Europe with Rick Steves, best-selling travel author and host of public television's "Rick Steves' Europe" and public radio's "Travel with Rick Steves." Others are light and designed mostly for tour groups. For dinner in Madrid…it's a movable feast. By 1800, Spain was no longer a world power. But its wealthy court continued to finance great art. At midday on Saturday and Sunday, the area around the lake becomes a street carnival, with jugglers, puppeteers, and lots of local color. By Rick Steves. ▲ Clothing Museum A clothes look at the 18th–21st centuries. Madrid's Royal Palace was built by Phillip V in the 1700s. Charles' son, Philip II, though very religious collected a bevy of sensual Venetian paintings. Bronze reliefs under the lampposts show how upon this stage, much of Spanish history was played out. ▲▲▲ Prado Museum One of the world's great museums, loaded with masterpieces by Diego Velázquez, Francisco de Goya, El Greco, Hieronymus Bosch, Albrecht Dürer, and more. Madrid is studded with riches from its glory days. Rick: And it's cloudy a little bit… Ticket ten-packs save money and can be shared by several travelers. Madrid's subway is simple, speedy, and cheap. Carlos: That's right. Hi. It divided every village. Here, try. Franco's grave takes center stage. This vibrant capital — Europe's highest, at 2,000 feet — has a population of over four million. Carlos: This is pig's ear. Just up the street, Casa Toni is run by…Toni. Madrid's much-loved "Central Park" offers splendid picnicking, row boating, and people-watching. She's joined by her servants…the "meninas.". (This clip is also available in Rick Steves Classroom Europe, my free — and ad-free — searchable database of short video clips about European art, history, and culture.) Then, for a dose of Spain's dramatic history, we side-trip to El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen. Carlos: Jamón serrano. Hemingway was there. This bar is a temple to bullfighting. With sleek marble, red carpet runners along the halls, happy Muzak charm, and an attentive staff, Hotel Europa is a tremendous value. Churros are the favorite local donut. Hit Europe's can't-miss art, sights, and bites with Rick Steves Best of Europe Expert advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and moneyItineraries for one to four days in the top destinations in England, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, and SwitzerlandRick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist trapsThe best of local culture, flavors, and haun If Spain had a national food it would probably be jamón — that's ham. ▲ Museum of the Americas Pre-Columbian and colonial artifacts from the New World. Today's palace is ridiculously super-sized — with 2,800 rooms, tons of luxurious tapestries, a king's ransom of chandeliers, frescoes by Tiepolo, priceless porcelain, and bronze decor covered in gold leaf. After every trip to this exciting city, the impression I take home is that of a thriving people with an enduring culture…which really knows how to dance. Madrid is livable and fun to visit. It's a time-honored tradition of going from one bar to the next, munching, drinking, and socializing. I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe. Get Textbooks on Google Play. Bull fighting is an art. Built at a time when Catholic Spain felt threatened by Protestant "heretics," the construction of this palace dominated the Spanish economy for a generation (1562–1584). The litter on the floor is normal; that's where people traditionally toss their trash and shells. A subway trip of even a stop or two saves time and energy. You're fighting against an animal that is 500 or 600 kilos and there is this guy right in front of him with this cape and sword. The elaborate model — constructed after the age of Copernicus — insists on proving that the solar system revolves unmistakably around the earth. Francisco Franco, the fascist dictator of Spain, was long buried in the vast, underground Valley of the Fallen memorial, along with thousands of his victims. In the southwest of Europe, Spain dominates the Iberian Peninsula. I’ve also disobeyed Rick Steves in London, Edinburgh and Madrid. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling in Spain. This is the cartilage actually. ▲ Royal Botanical Garden A relaxing museum of plants, with specimens from around the world. Madrid is studded with riches from its glory days. Snapshot guides are a great choice for travelers visiting a specific city or region, rather than multiple European destinations. Rick: And this one is much more expensive? Feel the vibe in Puerta del Sol, the pulsing heart of modern Madrid and of Spain itself. The King throws dinner parties for up to 150 guests at this bowling lane–sized table. Below, you can watch the part of my Madrid episode that is, thankfully, now out of date. I never thought I'd be eating actual pigs' ears. As we are part-time musicians, we felt an obligation to pay a visit during our free time that afternoon. We'll marvel at lavish palaces, ponder the Prado's evocative art, belly up to a bull bar, day-trip to Spain's imposing civil war memorial, stare down a flamenco dancer, delve deep into Picasso's greatest masterpiece…and munch on pigs' ears during a tapas crawl. Rick: Acorns? He dutifully portrayed the king and queen in all their royal finery. And that just happened with my Majesty of Madrid episode. It rents 100 squeaky-clean rooms, many with balconies overlooking the pedestrian zone or an inner courtyard. The altar features a painting of the flame-engulfed grill with St. Laurence meeting his fiery death. Downstairs, the Royal Pantheon is the gilded resting place of four centuries of Spanish kings and queens. Rick, look at these photographs. The city's broad streets can be hot and exhausting. With every visit, I stare into the eyes of those angels with swords, and think about all the "heroes" who keep dying "for God and country," at the request of the latter. As drinks are cheap and dishes are small and pricey, you might just want to share a ración or sample some wine. Rick Steves Spain, the complete guide, offers more coverage of more destinations in a mostly black-and-white format, and is updated annually. I do use them and so should you. But many see Goya becoming disenchanted with his patrons. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Madrid. ▲▲ National Archaeological Museum Traces the history of Iberia through artifacts. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Rick: Chin Chin! While these days the royal family lives in a mansion a few miles away, this place still functions as the ceremonial palace (call ahead to make sure it's not closed for a royal function), used for formal state receptions, royal weddings, and tourists' daydreams. The Spanish artist Pablo Picasso heard the shocking news and immediately set to work sketching the destruction as he imagined it. 647-293-693). The emotional intensity of Spanish culture can be experienced in its royal palaces. The square is filled with emblems of Spain's powerful past. Like for example, jamón granadino, or bellota extra, or Salamanca. Money falling from the sky made royals and aristocrats — the people who commissioned this kind of art — feel their wealth was blessed by God. I like gambas al ajillo shrimp sautéed with garlic and gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp). We've got all those different kinds there. Two lovers are suspended in a bubble…. Rick: It's nice, yes. As if measuring sorrow in distance, this 870-foot-long chamber is far longer than any church in Europe. ▲ Bullfight Spain's controversial pastime. Because kings might have married more than once, to make it here, a woman needed to be both queen and mother of a king. How do you excuse it? Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Las Tablas Flamenco offers a less expensive nightly show respecting the traditional art of flamenco, held in a modern, nondescript office block just over the freeway from Plaza de España. This is Europe's third-greatest palace, after Versailles and Vienna's Schönbrunn. Rick: Hemingway? The right-wing Fascists ultimately won and Franco ruled Spain, as its dictator, until 1975. ▲▲▲ Paseo Evening stroll among the Madrileños. Pigs' ears are a favorite here…and Jaime is a frantic one-man show who somehow gets everything just right. In Madrid, visit the masterpieces of … Who needs late fees when you hold the keys to eternal damnation? The enigmatic, introverted, and extremely Catholic King Philip II directed the Counter Reformation from this spot. Carlos: Yeah, they have freedom in the fields and they're eating acorns. His guide books are thoughtful, well researched and offer a lot for the budget minded traveler. This was our third Rick Steves tour, and was very possibly the best. The artist paints himself at work, along with a princess, who's watching her mom and dad pose. The immense Library shows that knowledge was a priority for the Spanish royalty. A woman looks to the sky, horses scream, a soldier falls — body shattered, sword broken. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. For the first time, the world could see the destructive force of the rising fascist movement — a prelude to World War II. Hemingway saw Liston… Cordobés kill …? Here, the specialty is sautéed pigs' ears (oreja, €5). The hotel has an honest ethos and offers a straight price. Las Carboneras is more downscale — an easygoing, folksy little place a few steps from Plaza Mayor with a nightly hour-long flamenco show (reservations recommended). We'll experience the majesty of its palaces and museums — and, we'll enjoy today's Madrid at its fun-loving best. Carlos: That's right. Experiencing Madrid at its fun-loving best, we' re mesmerized by flamenco dancers and munch on pigs' ears. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling in Madrid and Toledo.. Hasta luego. There is a strict filing system: The first and greatest, Charles V and his queen, flank the altar on the top shelf. While Spain remembers its rich and poignant history — and shares it well with visitors — the focus of today seems to be on living well. The town has charm…but everybody visits for this: its sprawling palace. Hugs from Madrid, Federico. Let's explore more of Europe together again soon. Jamón! Six miles from El Escorial, high in the Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains, a 500-foot-tall granite cross marks an immense and powerful underground monument to the victims of Spain's 20th-century nightmare — the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939). This modern-art museum has a fine collection of paintings, but we're heading directly to the epic work showing the harsh realities of modern war. But interred here — in chapels flanking the altar — are the remains of tens of thousands — victims from both sides — who lost their lives in Spain's civil war. Try gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp) or gambas al ajillo (ah-HEE-yoh, shrimp cooked in oil and garlic) and a glass of sweet red house wine. Goya's painting called The Second of May recalls how Spain hoped the ideals of Revolutionary France would spread, bringing democracy to Spain. Rick Steves I used to travel with absolutely no hotel reservations. Carlos: No, we have different kinds. Former parking lots are once again grand and people-friendly squares. Don't worry about paying until you're ready to go. ▲▲ Puerta del Sol Madrid's lively central square. Grab a toothpick and stab something strange. Rent and save from the world's largest eBookstore. Rick: Acorns, happy pigs running free in the mountains. The square hosted bullfights. It's enjoyed by all the people of Madrid. Then, foolish people chase after earthly delights — a pursuit that is ultimately a vicious cycle. Velasquez takes us behind the scenes as he paints a portrait of the king and queen. ©2020 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Home to Picasso's Guernica, the Reina Sofía is one of Europe's most enjoyable modern-art museums. These peaceful gardens offer great picnicking and people-watching (closes at dusk). Phillip V, the grandson of France's King Louis XIV, began the Bourbon dynasty, which continued into the 21st century with the popular King Juan Carlos. 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